Every time I read an interview with the guy I walk away thinking, "I like him!" I also like what he has been doing for the Men's line. Along his quote "doesn’t have to change his wardrobe every season", the items for Men have a classic appeal that seems to last for several years.8 Questions for Frank Muytjens of J.Crew
By Prepidemic
March 4, 2010
J.Crew Men’s Designer Frank Muytjens has been making waves in the fashion world since he took the helm in 2008. Under his reign, we have seen a once freakishly preppy company converted into a brand with awesome masculine tailoring, a military edge, and the same timeless appeal it’s always had. Not to mention numerous collaborations and, the opening of the Liquor Store, and a recent write-up in GQ as one of the best new designers in America. We were thrilled to speak with the man that is redefining affordable menswear, setting the trends for guys everywhere, and crushing the competition.
Prepidemic: What is the quintessential J.Crew outfit?
Frank Muytjens: The quintessential J.Crew look to me is a slimmer washed chino, rolled up at the hem, wingtip oxfords, no socks, chambray workshirt and a navy tropical wool Ludlow sportcoat. And if you want dress it up, add a narrow black tie (matte, not shiny) and a silver tie-clip.
Prepidemic: Does that sort of casual aesthetic limit the times and places one can wear J.Crew products?
Frank Muytjens: I think you can wear J.Crew at every occasion…from dinner jackets and Ludlow suits to slim fit jeans and workshirts.
Prepidemic: What’s so great about this casual aesthetic to you? Why should men be honing this sort of look?
Frank Muytjens: We like to make it easy for our guy by showing him how he can take elements from our line, and put them together in a way which creates distortion…You can put on a suit shirt and tie, but maybe it’s more interesting to put a chambray workshirt under your suit instead of a dress shirt. All elements of our line are interchangeable, but it’s how you put them together which makes the difference. That’s why we have the ‘Always List’ in the catalogue — just trying to make it easy for him, to edit his wardrobe for him, suggesting to him what to wear, not to make it more complicated. And I think our garments are easy to understand, and you know the fit is going to be great, the wash feels good, and the colors are easy to combine. You don’t have to worry – we did the worrying for him.
Prepidemic: Given the somewhat pronounced J.Crew look, how can one infuse his own individuality into his outfit if he’s wearing all J.Crew products?
Frank Muytjens: By trying to mix two different worlds together in one outfit: go for the high and low, like sneakers with a suit, pair a denim shirt with dress pants. Pair dress shoes with distressed jeans. Mix vintage with new. This is where the catalogue comes in handy, and on the website we have a great service called ‘Ask Jack’ he will answer all your sartorial questions. And the main rule is… don’t try too hard, the point is to make it look effortless, not overwrought. And also, keep on top of shifts in fit, for instance denim is getting more narrow, so instead of a straight or baggy fit, try a more fitted jean in a dark wash.
Prepidemic: To what extent is J.Crew still sticking to its heritage as a company for hardcore preppies?
Frank Muytjens: We re-looked at our heritage, tweaked it and brought in more authentic classic high-end menswear pieces, but with an updated fit, color or fabric. Like a double breasted trench in a navy wool instead of a khaki gabardine.
We always like to tell a story with a garment or a look. We lift elements from American history, work wear, vintage military etc because those garments are authentic and every detail served a purpose and was functional. We are looking for a lived in, effortless feel. I think a guy reacts to a garment when it feels he had it forever. But I also love to take garments out of their context and do something unexpected with them, to create tension.
Prepidemic: So many awesome collaborations for the brand: how do you choose companies with which you collaborate and what are you looking for in them?
Frank Muytjens: I love things with a history, I like our like our line to be steeped in authentic references, to keep a slightly familiar feel. I think a guy feels comfortable with that…I know I do…so when we started with the collaborations we were seeking brands steeped in history as well, the most authentic brands we could find, like Alden (since 1884), Red Wing (since 1905) and Russell Moccasins (since 1893). They’ve been around forever, just doing what they do best, not bothered by trends or feeling the need to update their logo. And I think it’s amazing that what they do now is still the same as what they did more then a century ago.
Prepidemic: What makes a J.Crew garment great?
Frank Muytjens: I think our guy loves quality and newness, but he doesn’t want to be the center of attention by the way he looks, he’s more subtle and understated. And he appreciates a more classic approach to fashion so he doesn’t have to change his wardrobe every season. He’s in it for the long run. And he wants his garments to look better with age.
Prepidemic: Coming from Holland how did you end up designing for Ralph Lauren and J.Crew? Got a thing for the classic American prep?
Frank Muytjens: I was always inspired by all things American since my first visit to NY in 1984…ranging from the Goldrush to the pictures of Dorothea Lange to Big Sur, so to move to NY in 1994 seemed the natural thing to do. I felt Polo was a great fit, I designed outerwear, and I was able to sharpen my eye there and immerse myself even more in American History and culture. When J.Crew came along I jumped at the chance to be able to put my sensibility on a full line instead of just part of a line.
What are your thoughts on the interview? Are there any comments that Frank made that you particularly agreed or disagreed with?
0 comments:
Post a Comment